30 million American women are seeing scalp, and it's often a symptom of a serious illness
Stylists always gushed, "Wow, you've got a lot of hair." I took my lush mane for granted, perming, straightening, and bleaching my way through my teens. But during my sophomore year of college, as I found myself pulling more and more tangles out of my brush and strands from the shower drain, the compliments stopped and the worry began. I jealously examined the girl next to me on the subway — why couldn't I see through to the roots on her scalp, too? Once a sheet of shiny darkness, my hair had taken on an alarmingly transparent quality. I spent hours every week staring at my scalp in the mirror, parting and reparting my hair to see which side looked fuller. I drenched my head with volumizing sprays, detoxifying tonics, and shampoos for "weakened hair." Remedies were thick on the ground — but my hair kept getting thinner. I was molting. And I was scared.
Like a peacock's
brilliant feathers, hair is a secondary sexual characteristic, explains
London trichologist Dr. Philip Kingsley. "You don't need it to keep you
either warm or cool, so its primary function is to increase
attractiveness." We live in a culture of hair, coveting Victoria's
Secret supermodels' voluptuous waves as much as their curves. So closely
linked are sex appeal and self-esteem that a 2004 Rogaine survey of
more than 500 women across the U.S. revealed that 24 percent equated
losing their hair to losing a limb. Since 30 million women in America —
roughly one in four — have thinning hair, there's a serious portion of
the population at risk for an emotional crisis.
When I brought up my hair issue at an annual physical, my doctor tested
me for lupus. Fortunately, the tests came back negative. Then I was
told that since I wasn't completely bald, I really didn't have a
problem. So I began to wonder if it was all in my head. When my
boyfriend ran his fingers through my hair, all I could think of was
whether I was losing strands. Did this gross him out? Or more
importantly, was a lot coming out? Needless to say, that
relationship didn't last long, lacking trust and the basic belief that
he could find me attractive in this condition. I didn't dare ask my
friends for a second opinion, because I didn't want them to scrutinize
my scalp. After another frustrating physical (with no answers), I
consulted my dermatologist, Dr. Fredric Brandt. Instead of dismissing my
concerns as mere vanity, he immediately wrote up requests for endocrine
blood tests, which prompted my general practitioner to finally cave and
grant me a specialist referral.
There are many causes of shedding, from stress to chemotherapy, but 90
percent of hair loss is genetic and needs to be treated with medication.
It can also be a sign of a thyroid disorder, says my endocrinologist,
Dr. Emilia Liao, who diagnosed me with mild hypothyroidism. "It's a good
thing you came in when you did," she told me on my first visit. "It
gets more complicated — and possibly dangerous — the older you get,
especially if you want to have a baby." Apparently, hair loss during
pregnancy is a big red flag. "One out of 50 women is diagnosed with
hypothyroidism while pregnant — it's still the most common cause of
mental retardation in children," says Liao.
The average age for women dealing with thinning hair is 25 to 35 — that
it's just another "gift" of menopause is a myth. Also, we can't simply
blame our mothers, as previously believed — if there's baldness anywhere
in your family tree, you're at risk. Unlike male-pattern baldness,
where patches of hair fall out over time, female hair loss means a
reduction in hair volume, making transplantation extremely difficult.
"The total number of hairs doesn't always decrease, but the diameter of
each strand shrinks," says Kingsley. And too-thin hairs won't grow past a
certain length — which explains the baby fuzz around my hairline.
How to Add Volume to Flat Hair
The key to successful regrowth? First, admit you have a problem. Each
day you dwell in denial, you're losing precious time. The more hair
you've lost, the less likely it is to all grow back. Telltale signs,
like a wider part or a smaller ponytail, don't show up until you've lost
nearly half your hair! Seek out trichologists and dermatologists or
endocrinologists who specialize in hair problems
As for me, thanks to two years of regular treatment, I've finally
reached the phase where regrowth is thicker every day. But the process
has been arduous and pricey: Rogaine requires diligent use and $30 a
month for the rest of my life. And some of my hormone-regulating
prescriptions — like Avodart, which I credit most for my good results
and which costs more than $200 a month — are not covered because if you
take them while pregnant, they can harm the fetus's development. But I
continue with my regimen because, for me, the risk is worth the remedy —
I'm not planning on pregnancy for a long, long time anyway. I also
figure it'll be a lot easier to find a potential father with my full
head of hair.
THINK BIG
When it comes to hair, thin is never in. Thicken up with these hair helpers:
1. Kérastase Nutrients Densitive Daily Anti-Hair Thinning, Anti-Hair Loss Dietary Supplement
2. Nick Chavez Plump 'N Thick Leave-In Thickening Crème Conditioner
3. Shu Uemura Fiber Lift Protective Volumizer
4. Men's Rogaine Foam (many derms recommend it for women, too)
5. L'Oréal Professionnel Age Densiforce Shampoo
6. Philip Kingsley Scalp Tonic
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